Hidden Istanbul
"Fener, Balat, and the Princes' Islands — the Istanbul photographers dream about."
"Fener, Balat, and the Princes' Islands — the Istanbul photographers dream about."
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Every city has a version of itself that exists below the tourist surface. Istanbul's version is called Fener and Balat.
These neighbourhoods along the Golden Horn were home to Istanbul's Greek Orthodox, Jewish, and Armenian communities for centuries. Today they are a patchwork of coloured houses on steep streets, ancient churches and synagogues, corner teahouses and second-hand bookshops — largely unchanged by the tourism wave that transformed Sultanahmet.
In the afternoon, we board a ferry to Büyükada — the largest of the Princes' Islands. No cars exist on the island. We explore by horse carriage or bicycle, past Belle Époque wooden mansions, pine forests, and monasteries perched above the Marmara Sea. It is, by most measures, the most peaceful place within an hour of a city of 15 million people.
The Greek Orthodox Patriarchate, the Phanar Greek school with its distinctive red building, and the steep lanes that still carry the memory of Byzantium's last centuries.
Coloured houses on stepped streets, the Ahrida Synagogue (one of Istanbul's oldest), antique shops, and the café culture of a neighbourhood recently discovered by artists.
The Ecumenical Patriarchate — the spiritual centre of Orthodox Christianity worldwide, housed in a modest church that belies its extraordinary significance.
Some of the finest surviving Byzantine mosaics and frescoes in the world — a small church that contains more extraordinary art per square metre than almost anywhere on earth.
The 1h 45min ferry journey across the Marmara is part of the experience — the city receding behind you, the islands emerging ahead.
No cars on the island. Horse carriages, pine forests, Belle Époque wooden mansions, and the Aya Yorgi Monastery with panoramic sea views.
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